What You Need to Know When Starting a Retinoid
First things first. Let’s clear up this Retinol/Retinoid confusion. “Retinoid” is an umbrella term used to describe a group of vitamin A derivatives that we know and love for their acne fighting and anti-aging properties. “Retinol” falls under this umbrella.
The major difference between retinoid and retinol is that retinol must go through several conversion steps before it is considered “active”, thus making it slightly “weaker” but much more tolerable than a prescription retinoid.
What that usually translates to:
Retinoids are typically thought of as prescription-strength products.
Retinols are available over the counter.
Now that we have that cleared up, let’s get back to it. You’ve heard the buzz about retinoids and want to start drinking the kool-aid. A few things you should know.
Use at night.
Retinoids are usually sensitive to light and become destabilized (less effective) when exposed to UV light. Therefore, these products are recommended to be applied at night.
Avoid spot-treating.
Whether you are using a retinoid for acne purposes or anti-aging, it is recommended to treat your entire face rather than spot treating. Retinoids often work for treatment AND prevention, thus can benefit more than just your problem areas.
Less is more.
A chocolate-chip size amount of the product is sufficient to cover your ENTIRE face. More is not better!
Start slow.
Retinoid products can be drying and irritating, especially in the beginning. Although we all want results and want them FAST, you won’t be happy when your face is red and peeling from using your retinoid every night. Start every 2 nights and increase as tolerated.
Use a moisturizer.
At some point, someone made up the myth that applying a moisturizer will make your retinoid less effective. WRONG, In fact, non-comedogenic moisturizers (like Cerave Moisturizing Lotion or La RochePosay Toleriane Ultra) make these products more tolerable, thus MORE effective! Apply after your retinoid.
Be careful what you mix.
If you haven’t gotten the hint yet, retinoids can be irritating! If you already use, or plan to add, a vitamin C serum, AHA/BHA serum, or benzoyl peroxide, be CAREFUL mixing them with your retinoid. Typically, it is recommended to use these products in the morning (opposite of your retinoid) or alternate the days you use each.
Where to start?
Maybe you’ve been considering adding a retinoid but are overwhelmed by all of the options. There’s something for everyone.
Mild acne:
Anti-aging:
Retinoids definitely deserve the buzz they get. However, patience is often key. Retinol products may take 3-4 months to start showing benefit. If you’ve been using a retinol for months and are looking for something stronger, there are several prescription-strength and medical grade skincare options available!
Happy Retinoid-ing!
-xoxo