WHAT. WHY. WHEN.

If there’s anything I’ve learned while working in dermatology, it’s that there are thousands of skincare products and everyone has their own opinion on which ones are the best.

I’m not here to give you my opinion on that today because, frankly, I’m not an expert in every single product that’s available. Rather, my goal is to highlight a handful of skincare OGs and answer 3 important questions: WHAT, WHY & WHEN.

When you understand the purpose of a product, you should be able to simplify your routine to use what you actually NEED rather than what’s popular on social media.

1. GENTLE CLEANSER

• Oil cleansers: remove oil-based impurities (think sebum, sunscreen, and makeup)

  • If this is something you feel necessary, I like to use these in the PM.

• Water cleansers: remove water-based impurities (think sweat and dirt)

  • Use to wash your face every AM and PM

  • If you use an oil-based cleanser at night, follow it up with a water-based cleanser after.

2. ANTIOXIDANTS (including Vitamin C)

• Help to brighten skin, reduce fine lines and wrinkles

• Promotes collagen production

• Apply in the AM after cleansing but before your sunscreen

  • In order to prevent oxidation (turning orange/brown), keep out of direct light and heat. Make sure the bottle is sealed tightly after each use. Best if used in 3 months.

    • Do NOT mix with AHA/BHA (think glycolic acid and salicylic acid) or benzoyl peroxide

3. SUNSCREEN

• Best anti-aging product available

• Use EVERY AM as the last step in your morning routine (before makeup)

4. MOISTURIZER

• Helps maintain skin balance and increases tolerability of other skincare products

• Look for “non-comedogenic” on the label

  • Remember: lotions are thinner; creams are thicker

• Use every AM and PM

5. ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (Glycolic Acid/Mandelic Acid/Lactic Acid)

• Exfoliate to help with skin texture

• Reduce “dark spots”

• Stimulate collagen production

• I typically like to use these in the AM.

  • Do NOT mix with Vitamin C (will result in destabilization of Vitamin C = less effective) or retinol (OK to use this in the AM and retinol PM)

6. BETA HYDROXY ACIDS (Salicylic Acid)

• Helps smooth skin

• Decreased blackheads by penetrating and clearing out pores

• I typically like to use this in the AM

  • Do NOT mix with Vitamin C or retinol (Again, OK to use in the AM and retinol PM, if tolerated)

7. Benzoyl peroxide (BPO)

• Targets acne-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation

• Helps with pus-filled pimple

• Can be used AM or PM

  • Do NOT mix with Vitamin C (if used in AM)

  • Caution dryness if used with retinol in PM(moisturizer is key; alternating is always an option)

8. RETINOL

• Treats and prevents acne

• Shrinks pores

• Anti-aging (reduces fine lines and wrinkles)

• Best if used PM

  • Crucial to apply moisturizer over top

Again, this is my very BASIC skincare breakdown. Someone is going to say I missed something. I most definitely didn’t touch on everything. If there’s something you want to know specifically, leave it in the comments:)!

Hopefully, this shined some light on any burning questions you had. When approaching a skincare routine, ask yourself WHAT your main concerns are first and then piece it together from there. Everyone DOESN’T need everything. And often, less is more.